NYT beer feature: it’s against the law to have bare-hand contact with ready-to-eat food. That includes limes for beers.
The first stop was Smith & Wollensky, the revered brass-rail bar and steakhouse in Midtown where the staff wears sharp white coats. Patrick Ford, a bartender for 35 of his 53 years, was standing behind the polished bar amid gleaming bottles on a busy Tuesday night as he considered how to legally garnish a beer.
“I won’t wear gloves,” he said, his tall frame so thin it seemed his white coat was still on a hanger. “It’s not a doctor’s office. It’s a saloon.”
He fished out a Corona and looked around. “We don’t have tongs,” he said. “I’ll use a fork.”
He speared a little wedge of lime and walked past several amused regular customers, toward a waiting Corona. In his coat, holding the fruit before him, he looked like a mad scientist with a laboratory specimen. The lime addressed the lip of the beer bottle with uncertainty, but when Mr. Ford removed the fork, it stuck there. Men cheered.
“Hey, Patty,” one man bellowed. “Give me a Corona over here! Be sure to use a fork!”
